Sunday, August 1, 2010

Oh yeah, this is a painting blog!




I have several painting projects going on right now, with all of them at various stages of completion. Despite how much I enjoy painting, I definitely have to be "in the mood" to sit down and paint miniatures. One of my projects is a small Cryx force for my game club. A few of us decided to play with an alternate faction than the ones we primarily play, just to add a little diversity to our games. We choose 25 point lists as a reasonable place to start. It just so happens I have been picking up certain Cryx models here and there over the years with the alternate faction idea in mind. And then Privateer Press released the Retribution of Scyrah and I choose them instead. I have a weakness for space elves, it seems.

Anyways, in painting these models, I decided I wanted to go with a very limited palette and use some speed painting techniques. I want to get the models painted quickly, as I would like to play them fully painted. I think Cryx lends itself to a speed painting method because the ragged, tattered and dirty nature of the faction does not have to be perfect. I mean, they are a legion of Undead, Necromancers, and Pirates, right?

My 25 point list includes:

Iron Lich Asphyxious
-Slayer
-Deathrippers x 2
-Skarlock
Bane Lord Tartarus
Bane Knights x 6
The Withershadow Combine

The base colors are P3 Greatcoat Grey and Necrotite Green and GW Brazen Brass, Bolt Gun Metal, and Bleached Bone. My version of "speed" painting involves glueing the base substrate on before spray priming the models with P3 black primer ( I love this primer). I then base coat the model with the above colors. Once that is done, I give the whole model a wash of P3 Armor Wash and GW Chaos Black thinned down with water. This really darkens the model. Then I hit the base coated areas again with a thinned down wash of the base colors. Afterwards, I do a very light drybrush of the Greatcoat Grey and Bolt Gun Metal areas with paint straight from the pot.

For the Brazen Brass areas, I do an additional straight GW Black Ink wash to for more shading. Then I use Windsor Newton Inks sepia tone for a rustic metal effect. Finally, I do a very light drybrush of GW Shinning Gold and P3 Radiant Platinum.

For the bone colored areas, I used GW Bleached Bone. On top of the shading the entire model gets, I add another P3 Brown Ink wash. Once that is dry, I mix GW Bleached Bone with P3 Menoth White and some mixing medium. This is then drybrushed over the raised areas before the final P3 Brown Ink wash is applied. Finally, I pick out the teeth P3 Menoth White.

The bases are done in GW Vermin Brown. I then add GW Bleached Bone to the base color and drybrush this mixture over the raised rocks. This is done two times, with the second drybrush having more Bleached Bone color than Vermin Brown. Finally, I use superglue and dip the base in some static grass. Once all of the excess static grass has been removed, I hold the model upside down and gently blow on the grass. This causes it to dry sticking up rather than laying flat once the model is held right side up again.

Finally, I hand seal all of the models with Microsystems matte varnish mixed with water.

I know that is not the traditional "dip" speed painting method, but using this method, I cranked out those four models in two nights. For me, that is fast!

I'll post more photos as I get more of the models done. And I know I need to take better photos, but I need a tripod and a lightbox to do them correctly, so I was improvising here.

Enjoy!

-Wicked

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